Michael A. Lacombe’s Political Gastronomy – A Book Review by Amanda Leavitt, MA Gastronomy

Michael A. Lacombe’s Political Gastronomy – A Book Review by Amanda Leavitt, MA Gastronomy

In writing Political Gastronomy: Food and Authority in the English Atlantic World, Michael A.
LaCombe intends to relate the early challenges the settlers faced pertaining to establishing
leadership and how food played a role in doing so. For both the colonists and the Native
Americans they encountered, LaCombe argues that food was a symbol of power for both the
English as well as the Native Americans, and they each used food to show that power in
different ways. This book presents evidence, the majority of which is from the colonists’ perspective, of how food defines a leader.

In the introduction, LaCombe poses two questions. Firstly, he intends to address how food
plays a role in politics. He focuses on answering this question through the lens of “authority”
(LaCombe 2012, 8). He states, “Food was fundamental to this search for legitimacy” (LaCombe
2012, 8). He details the role food had in determining whether or not a leader was
effective at a specific point in time, or overall.

Secondly, what role did food play in Native American and English Society? As both parties
“[struggled] for precedence”(LaCombe 2012, 8), as well as striving to understand each other in
the absence of a common spoken language, they leveraged food as a symbol of their power
dynamic. He examines encounters between men and women, English and Native American,
and the role food played in those exchanges. He wrote of the English and the way both an
abundance and high quality of food symbolized a well-run household. Beyond that, he details
the gendered norms and roles within the patriarchal and later humanist society. He clarifies that
the role food played in Native American society was more difficult to track since tribes had
unique agricultural practices, but he did emphasize that both Native Americans and the English
valued hospitality as a means of societal politeness but also political strategy.

The book is divided into six chapters, written thematically, but chronologically record the
accounts of writers at different points of the colonization, namely William Bradford, Captain John
Smith, and Robert Beverley. The first chapter defines a leader, as a “man of Name and Note”
(LaCombe 2012, 37), and illustrates the patriarchal and humanist society of the time. However,
LaCombe also explains that in many instances, there was no title to leverage, or that title didn’t
mean enough in the situation to warrant authority. He expresses, “In every case, food was as
fundamental to these images as it was a tangible sign of effective leadership (LaCombe 2012,
41). He proceeds to highlight how the amount and quality of food is indicative of the quality of
leader. He also spoke to the role of gender in the household and society, the unexpected
dependency the English had on the Native Americans to source food, the role of food in high
society, and the different ways Native Americans and the English viewed food and hospitality.

LaCombe’s sources vary from correspondence between colonists and their financial backers, to
engravings, watercolors, and illustrations to show the lay of the land in the colonies. He also
frequently refers to “Five hundredth points of good husbandry united to as many of good
huswiferie”, a manual by Thomas Tusser that lends itself to LaCombe’s argument that food is
central to the operations of a household, and an indicator of a civilized society. These provide an
effective glimpse into the era, as they are first person accounts of the colonial experience.

The book’s organization was a powerful narrative of the English’s triumphs and struggle in
settling the colonies. In introducing humanism (the threat of moral decline and absolute power)
(LaCombe 2012, 46) early on, LaCombe adds another layer of analysis beyond the typical
patriarchal society. LaCombe also frequently referenced Tusser’s manual to provide context
around societal norms.

LaCombe splits his argument between the role food played within English Society and in
establishing a relationship with the Native Americans. He detailed its role in creating a strong
leadership image, particularly when he discussed the tale of Baron de la Warre, and how he
simultaneously used food as a way to chastise “idle” colonists, and as an incentive after a
period of famine and supposed cannibalism (LaCombe 2012, 46). He balances this with
descriptions of the Native American encounters, beginning with the initial interactions on the
ships with an exchange of food and contrasting that with the conflict that arose, resulting in war.

While largely the beginning of the book focuses on English society, LaCombe later intertwines
Native American culture to create powerful parallels and intersections. He effectively depicts
how food for both parties was a way to show dominance and respect toward one another.
Particularly regarding hospitality and the role of the family meal, LaCombe highlights that in
some cases, the Algonquians were an even better example of good hospitality (LaCombe 2012,
136). However, the English were wary of this showing, as it seemed to underscore a shift in
power dynamic. LaCombe delineates this as a way to support his argument: the party that
supplied a bounty of food to their guests inherently is displaying their power and leadership.

LaCombe’s focus on the colonist’s society and the role food played in it presented compelling
evidence that served his assertion: food is power, and those who know how to produce it
ascend the ladder of authority quickly. He mentions that both in times of bounty and scarcity,
authority is necessary to maintain balance and civilization. He highlights in his conclusion that
while the Native Americans of New England and English fought for dominance, “English
writers…still focused their observations on food.” (LaCombe 2012, 169). Food is also a symbol
representing tension or solidarity around the table: LaCombe presents the role of hospitality as
a way to support his argument that the English and Native Americans knew where they stood
with each other based on what happened around a table of food.

LaCombe’s argument stands through his writing that food truly was a strong indicator of who,
the English or the Native Americans, held the power.

Sources:

Combe, Michael A. Political Gastronomy: Food and Authority in the English Atlantic
World. Philadelphia, PA: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2012.